England have come a long way under Fabio Capello. Fitting then that we find ourselves in central Asia, just a few hours’ drive from the Chinese border, for the team's penultimate game of the season against Kazakhstan, at the very east of FIFA's 'European' qualification zone.
Seven hours may be short haul for David Beckham, but this beautiful and gigantic country still represents something of a challenge to England. It's hot here, and at 500 metres above sea level the air is thin. The pitch at the decrepid Almaty Central Stadium is even worse than Wembley's, and at the very end of a long, arduous season, it’s fair to say that John Terry and co wouldn't have chosen Borat's backyard for their summer holidays.
They should do of course. Almaty is a fascinating city, a melting pot of over 100 different ethnic groups, but mostly Mongolians, Russians and Kazakhs. Part of the ancient Silk Route, this used to be the centre of the world. As a Soviet arms testing-ground during the Cold War, the region became a no-go zone for many years, but oil and independence has revived Kazakhstan, and everywhere you look are signs of its restored wealth and influence.
With his new $130,000 a week contract, Gareth Barry now knows how it feels to be staggeringly rich, but his move to Man City, and the week's other sub-plot, Carlo Ancelotti's arrival at Chelsea, should not distract England from the task in hand. 'No excuses' is Capello's mantra, and his players will not have any if they fail to deliver here tomorrow.
Ensconced in the city's finest hotel, and having been here since Wednesday evening, England have the time and facilities to cope with the rigours of their seven-hour flight, but what really impresses is their attitude. Only David James and Rio Ferdinand will be missing from Capello's first-choice team against Kazakhstan; the days of dropping out of June England squads at a whim have gone. Everyone wants to be part of the journey to South Africa, and with selection based on form, absenteeism can cost a player a place, as Michael Carrick will soon discover.
Up in the mountains, German Bernd Stork has been beasting the Kazakh team, his brutal fitness regime designed to avoid the late collapse his side suffered against England in October. The minnows held their illustrious opponents at bay until the second half, and will prove tough to break down again, but England are in a different league and will win comfortably. If Rooney has an off day then Gerrard surely won't. Then there's Theo, or Lampard to rely on.
Capello's great achievement has been to work out how to fit England's assets into the same side. His system relies on a big fulcrum up front (Heskey, Cole or Crouch) with 3 supporting behind (Gerrard and Rooney taking it in turns to raid from the left and Walcott on the right). Barry and Lampard sit and the defence looks after itself with Johnson finally established at right back. In goal Robert Green will have a golden opportunity to stake a claim in James' absence, this the one position in the team which Capello remains unsure of.
But England will win, both here and against Andorra back at Wembley next week, and only then will the players' thoughts turn to a holiday and their villas in Dubai. Capello wouldn't have it any other way.
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